A first week in the Ionian: a realistic route

The mistake people make on a first charter is planning too much of it. Seven days looks like a lot of sailing time until you subtract the afternoon you lose to the wind, the morning nobody wants to leave the bay, and the fact that the boat has to be back where it started.

The Ionian Islands forgive that mistake better than anywhere else in Greece, because the distances are short and the water is sheltered. What follows is a realistic week out of Lefkada, with the kind of daily legs that leave time to swim.

Most charters here start from Lefkada, Corfu or Kefalonia. This route assumes Lefkada, which is one of the main bases and sits in the middle of everything worth seeing.

Why the Ionian first

Three things make this the right sea for a first week. The distances between anchorages are short, so a bad decision costs you an hour rather than a day. The water is protected by the islands themselves, so there is very little swell. And the wind is predictable in a way the Aegean is not.

That wind is typically a northwesterly sea breeze that fills in through the early afternoon, blows steadily, and dies away in the evening. Mornings are usually calm. It means you can plan a day the night before and be roughly right, which is exactly what an inexperienced crew needs.

The islands are also green rather than bare, the villages are close to the water, and there is a taverna in almost every bay you would want to stop in. None of that shows up on a chart, but it is why people come back.

Days 1 to 2

Day one is not a sailing day. You board in the afternoon, do the handover, buy food and sleep at the base or a short distance from it. If you want to move, Vlicho Bay is about nine miles down the east coast of Lefkada and is one of the most sheltered anchorages in the Ionian, with Nidri next door for supplies and a first dinner ashore.

Leaving the base means passing through the Lefkada canal, and the floating bridge at its northern end opens only at set times, which have changed in recent seasons. If your route takes you through the bridge, check the current schedule with the base and plan the departure around it.

Day two is a short hop to Meganisi, six miles or so across the channel. Spartochori sits above a small harbour on the northwest corner, Vathi is a proper village quay a little further east, and Port Atheni is a set of quiet inlets nearby if you would rather anchor than tie up. Six miles is nothing, which is the point: the day is mostly swimming.

Days 3 to 4

Day three heads south to Kastos or Kalamos, about ten miles. These two are the quietest islands in the route, with almost no development, one or two small villages each and a handful of tavernas whose owners will take your lines when you come alongside. Kalamos has a fierce afternoon gust that funnels down off the hill, so arrive earlier rather than later.

Day four is the longest leg so far, roughly fifteen miles across to Ithaca. Kioni is the anchorage most crews aim for, a horseshoe bay with three ruined windmills on the headland and a village that is small enough to walk round in ten minutes. Vathi, Ithaca’s main harbour, is the alternative if Kioni is full, and in July and August it often is.

This is the day the week starts to feel like a proper passage rather than a series of hops, and it is also where the afternoon breeze usually gives you the best sailing of the trip.

Days 5 to 6

Day five is deliberately short. Fiskardo on the northern tip of Kefalonia is only about seven miles from Kioni, which leaves the whole morning free. Fiskardo is one of the prettiest harbours in the Ionian and one of the busiest, so the trade-off is arriving by early afternoon to find a place on the quay, or anchoring in one of the bays just outside and taking the dinghy in.

Day six turns north again, about twelve miles back up to Sivota on the south coast of Lefkada. Sivota is a deep, almost enclosed inlet lined with tavernas, most of which have their own pontoon and will give you a berth for the price of dinner. It is the classic last night of an Ionian week.

If the wind is behind you both of these are comfortable. If it is not, take them early in the day while the sea is still flat.

Day 7

The last leg is about twenty miles from Sivota back up the coast and into the canal to the base. Most bases want the yacht back the evening before the charter ends, with the crew sleeping on board and disembarking in the morning.

Leave early. The wind on the last morning is the one you cannot negotiate with, and arriving with time in hand means the check-out is calm, the fuel dock is not queued and nobody is packing in a hurry. If the day turns out easy, there is a last swim on the way.

What to change if the wind turns

The Ionian is gentle, not immune. When the northwesterly blows harder than forecast, or a southerly comes through, the route bends rather than breaks.

Going south, run with it and stay south an extra day, cutting Kefalonia out and returning through the inside channel. Coming back north into a strong breeze, leave at first light and be tied up by lunchtime rather than beating into it all afternoon. Vlicho Bay, Port Atheni and Sivota are the three places to head for if you want a night where nothing moves.

The other adjustment is honest rather than tactical: drop a stop. A week with five anchorages and time to enjoy them beats a week with seven and a crew that is tired of the boat. On a bareboat charter that decision is yours to make each morning, which is the whole reason for taking one.

Two practical notes on the route. Fuel is available at the base and at a handful of harbours along the way, so top up when the opportunity appears rather than when the gauge says you have to. And keep the base informed if you change the plan, particularly if you decide to stay south an extra night, because they are the people who will help if something goes wrong.

The last thing worth saying about a first Ionian week is that the route above is a suggestion rather than a schedule. Every anchorage on it has an alternative within an hour, and the crews who enjoy the week most are the ones who treat the plan as a starting point.

For the two main Ionian bases, see yacht charter in Corfu and yacht charter in Lefkada.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where do Ionian charters usually start?

Most charters depart from Lefkada, Corfu or Kefalonia, depending on the yacht. Lefkada is the most central base and the easiest starting point for a first week.

Is the Ionian suitable for a first charter?

Yes. Calm waters and short sailing distances make it one of the most beginner-friendly sailing areas in Greece.

How many miles a day should we plan?

Somewhere between six and twenty on this route, which is two to four hours of sailing. Planning more than that on a first week usually means cutting swim stops to make the harbour.

Which islands does this route cover?

Lefkada, Meganisi, Kastos or Kalamos, Ithaca and Kefalonia. Corfu, Paxos and Antipaxos sit further north and suit a second week or a one-way charter; for a week based in Corfu, see our 7-day Ionian sailing itinerary from Corfu.

Can the itinerary be changed once we are out there?

Yes. Every itinerary can be tailored to your travel style, yacht type and the weather, and changing the plan mid-week is normal rather than a problem.

Sources

• Municipality of Lefkada, Evgiros – Sivota. https://lefkada.gov.gr/en/dimotikes-enotites-apollonion-evgiros-sibota/
• Municipality of Lefkada, Kalamos. https://lefkada.gov.gr/en/dimotikes-enotites-kalamos/
• Greek National Tourism Organisation, Lefkada. https://www.visitgreece.gr/en/islands/ionian-islands/lefkada
• Discover Greece, Exploring the magical world beyond Nydri on Lefkada. https://www.discovergreece.com/experiences/exploring-magical-world-beyond-nydri-lefkada
• Discover Greece, Ithaca Greece Travel Guide – Beaches, Villages & Mythology. https://www.discovergreece.com/ionian-islands/ithaca
• Discover Greece, Explore the scenic villages of Kefalonia. https://www.discovergreece.com/experiences/explore-scenic-villages-kefalonia